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GUIDE TO REMARKABLE SUCCESS WITH BULBS, TUBERS, and CORMS |
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How do you make your bulbs, tubers, and corms really shine? FairyGardens' Guide to Remarkable Success with Bulbs, Tubers, and Corms is here to help!
DEFINITIONSBulbs, corms and tubers are perennial plants that have the following in common: each is a form of modified stem from which the plant grows up and the roots grow down. They also have two common functions: to act as a food storehouse for carrying the plant over its dormant state and into its next growing period; and to serve as a means of propagation. In true bulbs the complete flower, surrounded by fleshy scales, is already developed in embryo form before it is planted. These scales or layers may be firm and solid and tightly enclosed in a skin as in the case of the tulip and onion. Or like Endymions (Bluebells), they may have overlapping layers with no outside skin. Other true bulbs include: Daffodils, Lilies, Hyacinths, Allium, Chionodoxa, Galanthus, Muscari and Scilla. A corm differs from a true bulb in that the flesh is not arranged in layers or scales but is a uniform fleshy mass. If you cut them in half you will find no embryo flower but you will see a basal plate around which roots start when growth is renewed in the fall. The flower will sprout from the center on top. Crocuses and Gladiolus are typical corms. A tuber, like a corm, is composed of solid tissue which develops underground at the base of the old plant stem. New plants sprout from eyes or buds located anywhere on the surface of the tuber. Anemones and Eranthis both grow from tubers. All spring-flowering bulbs (corms and tubers) require a period of rest or dormancy between the time they complete their growth in early summer and the time new root-growth begins in the fall. During this dormant period it is possible to keep them above ground a long time and to send over great distances. To start a new year-cycle of growth the bulbs first have to develop a good root system. However, bulbs only develop roots under cool temperatures and this is why they have to be planted sometime in the fall when nature provides the right conditions.
SOIL PREPARATIONWhen your soil begins to dry up in spring, grab your spade and get going - it's time to prepare your garden for planting! Most gardeners know they should put good effort into soil prep, because it's the single most important thing one can do to grow a good garden. The goal is to improve soil structure so that the soil is deep, loose, and well-drained. In friable soil such as this, plants can send roots into regions where the nutrients and moisture they need are located. Nutrients move more easily as water percolates between soil particles; and in addition, oxygen is available for the roots to use. The overall effect is healthier, stronger plants that resist diseases and insects. Whether you have clay or sandy soil, the best way to improve soil structure is to add organic matter such as compost, manure, completely decomposed sawdust or straw, shredded bark, or rotten leaves. Don't use fresh sawdust or straw because it uses up nitrogen, a major plant nutrient, while it is decomposing. The organic matter is fed upon by beneficial soil bacteria that then release nutrients into the soil and make them available for plant use. It's all part of the food chain, and it's pretty remarkable when you think about it. Here's a quick guide to soil preparation:
Next growing season try another approach and do this work in the fall when your annual garden comes to an end. As beds are harvested, perform the same steps mentioned above and then take it one step further: Plant a cover crop to blanket the soil over the wintertime and add nutrients and organic matter next spring; or spread several inches of straw over the beds to protect them from rain and erosion. You'll be ready to plant weeks earlier the following year. There are numerous cover crops good for over wintering. Check seed catalogs or local garden centers and farm supply outlets. My favorite is a mixture of Crimson Clover and annual Winter Rye. Other good cover crops include Vetch, oats & peas, and fava beans. One question that comes up if you're growing cover crops is: When do you turn them under? The latest you should let cover crops grow is two weeks before you intend to plant, although four weeks beforehand would be better. Cover crops need time to break down. If you're growing nitrogen-fixing legumes, such as crimson clover, turn them under or cut them just as they are coming into bloom, which signals that a peak of nutrients has been reached. You may turn everything under the soil surface, or you can cut off the green tops, put them in your compost pile, and then chop up and turn under the stubs and roots. Good soil prep from the beginning will do more than nearly anything else you can do for your garden to guarantee successful plant growth.
PLANTING YOUR BULBSSun & Shade - Where to Plant To bloom well, Tulips, Daffodils and Hyacinths require at least 5-6 hours of sun a day. This does not, however, restrict their planting to areas that are in full sun the year round. As they bloom before deciduous trees have full growth they usually get plenty of sun at this season of the year even in locations where there may be considerable shade later on. Also, you can help the bulbs a little by trimming away the lowest branches of the trees. If part of your property has so many trees that few plants will grow, you may still enjoy spring-flowering bulbs by making your wooded area a haven for shade-tolerant bulbs. None of these bulbs, however, will grow in no sun at all. Shade so dense that it will admit less than one hour of the day’s sun will permit few bulbs to flourish. Soil & Drainage So far as the physical character of soil is concerned, bulbs are less particular than many other plants. They do well in fairly heavy clay, loam, or sandy loam. Tolerant or indifferent though most bulbs may be as to soils, when it comes to drainage it is quite a different story. Any place in your garden that remains wet for long periods after rain should be avoided. Good drainage is essential, never plant bulbs where water collects. Heavy clay soils may be lightened by digging in organic material such as peat, pine-bark, or compost. Also, an inch or two of course sand below each bulb will help to improve drainage. Bulbs are extremely adaptable and will grow under widely diversified conditions. Tulips, Daffodils, Hyacinths, Crocuses and all the other bulbs can safely be grown from the Canadian border down to those southern states where temperatures go low enough to provide the required cold period during which root systems are developed. In the deep south where soil temperatures do not cool down sufficiently in winter, it is recommend pre-cooling of the bulbs in a refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks before planting in December. When to Plant The planting period extends from mid-September until the ground freezes too hard to be dug. This will vary, in normal seasons, from mid-October in the general latitude of New York, Cleveland, or Kansas City to two or three weeks earlier farther north and several weeks later farther south and along the Pacific Coast. If winter catches up with you before you had a chance to get the bulbs into the ground, don’t decide you will just keep the bulbs until it warms up in the spring. This won’t work, since bulbs require an extensive cold period to establish a good root system. The bulbs can be planted as long as you can get into the ground, even if this means planting after the first hard freeze or after the first snow. If you receive bulbs via mailorder, unpack the bulbs as soon as they arrive so that air can get to them. Prior to planting they are best stored in a dry, dark and cool place (50°-65° F). The planting depths given are measured to the top of the bulb, thus excavate the area 1 to 2 inches deeper. These depths of planting will help to protect the bulbs against frost, animals, and physical damage due to hoeing and light cultivating. How to Plant As a general rule the planting depth (measured from top of bulb to soil level) should be two to three times the greatest diameter of the bulb. If your soil is very sandy, plant a bit deeper, in heavy clay somewhat less. There are two methods of getting bulbs into the ground. The first is to place the bulbs on the surface of the bed, then each one is individually planted with trowel or auger. This is best used for informal plantings or when planting minor bulbs such as Crocuses, Squills, Snowdrops and Grape Hyacinths. For planting large quantities of bulbs in beds and borders follow these directions:
Mulching Tulips, Daffodils, Hyacinths, Crocuses, etc., do not need protection from hard freezing once they are established. In fact, most hardy spring bulbs produce healthier growth without winter covering. If you plant in a bed which must be mulched for the sake of other plants, proceed as usual, but if possible cover the areas above bulbs lightly. Then in early spring carefully remove the mulch. Bulb Pests If you grew nothing but spring bulbs in your garden, you would have little use for insecticides or sprayer for they give the home gardener little trouble in the way of insects and diseases. Far more troublesome are bulb enemies which scurry about on four feet: deer and rodents. In some areas they have become such a menace that gardeners have given up growing bulbs completely. This is a pity, for of all the major spring bulbs these quadrupeds are only interested in Tulips and Crocuses. And while it is true that it can be difficult to keep them away from your Tulip and Crocus beds - although planting in high traffic areas or close to the house does seem to help – one easy way to outwit them is to plant bulbs they don’t like. See our PEST RESISTANT PLANTS page for more information!
POST-BLOOM CAREThe care of spring bulbs after they have flowered is as important, perhaps more important, than that which is given before flowering. After flowering the fading blooms are best removed to prevent the development of seed pods which rob the bulb of strength and hence harms next years bloom. Never cut down the foliage of your spring bulbs before it starts to yellow. This is the one cardinal rule which cannot be broken, for it is at this time that it stores the food which will carry it over to the next season. In the Connecticut area the foliage of minor bulbs, like Crocuses, can safely be cut back by the middle of May; Tulip foliage may be removed by mid-June; Daffodils are best left alone until the middle of July. Cut Flowers The long life of Tulips and Daffodils make it worth while to plant them just for cutting. Flowers that are wanted for decoration indoors should be cut as soon as they are safely beyond the tight bud stage and show their first color. Most of them will then remain in good condition for two weeks or more. In cutting the flowers of spring bulbs, most of the foliage is best left to grow on the bulb.
FORCING BULBSThe best containers for forcing bulbs are azalea pots (3/4 tall) or bulb pans, however you can use anything that you'd use for other houseplants as long as it drains well. Since a bulb contains all it needs to bloom the first year, the planting mix doesn't necessarily have to provide any nutrients, but I have found that using a good potting soil makes it much easier to transplant the bulbs to the garden later. The addition of bone meal or bulb food will help the bulbs prepare for an afterlife in the garden. Clean washed sand or gravel may also be used as alternatives, but I don't recommend it. The pot should be filled to one-half to three-quarters full with potting mix and then moistened. Gently press the bulbs into the soil with the broad base down, and the nose pointed up. They should be arranged as close together as possible without touching each other or the pot. Face the flat side of tulip bulbs toward the outside of the pot. Barely cover the bulbs with additional potting mix and water gently until the soil is thoroughly moistened. Add a little more soil if settling has exposed the bulb. The pot must be placed in a dark, cool area for 12 weeks or longer. The temperature must remain below 48 degrees F. but above freezing (35-40 degrees is recommended). While total darkness is best, if you are chilling the bulbs in the refrigerator, don't worry about the light coming on when you open the door. Once the roots begin growing out of the drainage holes in the pots or the shoots start to grow (about twelve weeks), give the bulbs a gradual transition to warm. Don't expose them to warm temperatures too soon or the blooms will emerge too fast and will fail before they open. Start them out in the coolest spot of your home and gradually move them to warmer areas. This will make the flowers last much longer. Don't expose pale or white foliage to full sun until it has 'greened' up in a few days. Rotate the pots one-quarter turn every few days to keep the foliage and stems upright. Keep the soil moist, but never soggy. Once the bulbs have finished flowering, remove the spent flowers and stems but continue to keep watering and providing light for the foliage. The bulbs can be planted outside when the weather permits just as with any perennial. Do not remove the foliage until it has turned yellow. Unfortunately, forcing takes a lot out of a bulb so it may not bloom again for many seasons. The bulbs should never be forced a second time, always start with "new" bulbs. The bulbs can be separated by gently and slowly pulling them apart. BULBS FOR FORCING
PERENNIAL TULIPSUnder favorable conditions some tulips may flower satisfactorily for four years or more instead of the usual one or two. However, this is true for only a handful of varieties that in our experience have shown a greater capacity to survive. The way to encourage perennial behavior is to plant the bulbs deep since this forces the mother bulb to produce fewer but bigger bulbs with a better chance to produce flowers the following season. To be really effective deep planting calls for a soil cover of 9 inches. To be safe for tulips the soil must be rich, loose and well drained for a full 16 inches. This involves considerable extra digging, for there must be plenty of rich soil beneath the tulips so that the roots will have at least six inches of good growing medium. If such digging is beyond you, avoid deep planting. Plant in areas that receive at least 3 to 4 hours if afternoon sun and are well drained. In the springtime always deadhead the spent flower/pistil after blooming and discard onto compost. Then you must allow the tulip foliage to die back. This foliage die-back period after blooming in the spring may last 6 weeks or longer. You will have to deal with this 6-week unsightly foliage period if you want to give the bulbs any chance of recharging for the following springs bloom. That’s the way it is. During dormancy in the summer it is important that the areas where the bulbs are planted stay dry or drier rather than wetter. Too much moisture during summer dormancy may cause the bulbs to rot. In deep southern climates all bets are off for perennial tulips as your climate/spring is far too warm to charge the bulbs up for a second year. The above guidelines should increase your chances of return bloom. However circumstances beyond our control like weather can also affect your results. Every planting area is different with its own soil type, sun exposure, drainage and microclimate. Horticulture and agriculture are very unpredictable and advice that works across the board is not possible.
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••• bulbs
• pansies • roses
• pest resistant plants ••• These tips are only of a general nature. Plants and climate will greatly differ wherever your garden may be. Always check these suggestions against your local extension office's advice. |
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contents copyright • 2004 • fairygardens |
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